Sunday, 20 April 2025

Walking the Monmouthshire & Brecon Canal

Gilwern to Llangattock and Crickhowell

How to Get to Gilwern from Abergavenny Bus Station

Catch the 76 Merthyr Tydfil bus operated by Stagecoach, 40 minutes past every hour for Gilwern (ask for the stop near the canal), journey time is 25 minutes. Ask the driver to drop you at the Towpath Inn. There's also a less frequent bus A3 Brynmawr bus operated by Newport Bus. Both run on Mondays to Saturdays only. Here's a glimpse of your destination at Llangattock to whet your appetite. 



The Walk

This easy 6 mile leisurely exploration of the Monmouthshire and Brecon canal makes for a good introduction to this part of the Usk Valley. There's some concern at present as it is threatened by a potential lack of water to allow navigation by the many narrow boats which ply this truncated part of the UK canal network. 

It might well seem a bit foolhardy to us that local entrepreneurs decided to build a canal through such a thinly populated area to a terminus in Brecon and to transfer goods to a horse drawn tramway through to Hay-on-Wye, Eardisley and eventually to Kington and Burlingjobb. But 230 some years ago, the need to build transport networks which could handle bulky goods such as coal, lime, iron and agricultural produce was very pressing as most roads were still in an appalling state. 

So, in 1793 the Brecknock and Abergavenny canal was given the go ahead by Parliament and by 1797 work was well under way and later it would be linked with the Monmouthshire canal south of Pontypool. So, it is appropriate that you are treading the towpath from Gilwern as this is where the first tramroad to the canal was built followed by the waterway. 

Cross the road by the Towpath Inn to access the towpath and now walk ahead. There are no stiles and the only thing you need to look out for are a small number of cyclists who whiz along at an unfriendly pace. However, be assured most cyclists we met were responsible. 
  

Pass over the Clydach Gorge on an aqueduct, an engineering feat masterminded by Thomas Dadford Junior, although his father and brothers were also involved in the project. Continue through Coed-Perth-y-Piod wood and by a marina at Pen-pedair-heol where the first sod was cut way back in the 1790s. 


Llangattock

As you approach Llangattock village there's another feature of note, a Giant Redwood with a very wide fluted girth which has stood the test of time much to the amazement of walkers. The other place of note is the Tramway Coffee shop across the canal-the notice will advise as to how you can pop around to take refreshment if the coffee ferry boat is not on duty. 



Continue along the towpath to pass by the lime kilns built in the second decade of the 19th century (as featured in the first pic) and onwards to leave the canal at Bridge 105.



Drop down the lane, steeply at first to pass by the 16th century Old Rectory Hotel and by Sant Catwyg church where you keep ahead on a footpath by the house and over a footbridge to the Horseshoe Inn, an engaging hostelry serving great food and a good pint. 


Retrace your steps back to St Catwyg church; the tower is 12th century although the original church was much earlier. Follow the path through the churchyard over a footbridge and left at the junction down to Crickhowell Bridge. 

Return from Crickhowell

Once over turn immediately right to walk up to the town centre. As the photo below shows, Crickhowell is an interesting place, spoilt only by the intrusion of motor traffic. Catch the bus , Stagecoach X43 and 43 back to Abergavenny (Daily) from the stop near to the Information Centre. Crickhowell will be featured in another article in due course as it is an excellent town for those seeking out walks in the Parc Bannau Brycheiniog. 


Thanks to Mike, Mick and Leso for use of photographs. 

 

Monday, 24 February 2025

 

Daffs ‘25 - The Return of the FREE Daffodil Shuttle.

Buses4Us is a Community Interest Company which has brought back to life a bus route between Ledbury and Ross-on-Wye via Newent which was shamefully abandoned by Stagecoach Buses in 2022. Masterminded by a group of ladies and one gent in the Newent area the 232 bus now serves all of the villages and towns on the route. I’ll be writing again about this venture but the key message today is for you to take advantage of the Free Daffodil Shuttle buses for the March 2025, 50th Anniversary year of the Golden Triangle Daffodil Season.


I’ll leave the rest of the story to Clare Stone, the enigmatic chair of Buses4Us to explain:

“The Golden Triangle on the Herefordshire/Gloucestershire border hosts possibly the best displays of wild daffodils in the UK each March. The 232 Daffodil Line bus runs around the borders of the Triangle, but the lanes at the heart, where the best displays can be seen, are just too narrow for a big bus. So in 2024, with support from Kempley Parish Council and Rail & Bus for Herefordshire Buses4Us we are providing free Daffodil Shuttles to allow visitors to enjoy the Daffs, without the need for a car.

We put on a minibus for 2 weekends last year, to coincide with Kempley and Oxenhall Daffodil Weekends, and Newent Spring Fayre. They were a huge success, over the 4 days we carried 600 people on one little minibus. This enabled people to enjoy the spring displays without a car - whether because they don’t have a car, or because they prefer not to take one into the narrow lanes and important ecosystems at the heart of the Triangle.

The daffodil weekends are extremely popular, attracting visitors from all over the country, but to some extent they have become a victim of their own success with cars clogging up the lanes causing issues for walkers and cyclists and sometimes destroying the wildflower verges they have come to see by driving or parking on them. For 2025 we have been able to expand the programme with 2 minibuses operating over 3 weekends in March:

8/9 March Dymock Daffodil Weekend

15/16 March Kempley Daffodil Weekend

22/23 March Oxenhall Daffodil Weekend and Newent Spring Fayre. 

This extended programme has been made possible through generous support from Gloucestershire and Herefordshire County Councils, Forest of Dean District Council and through sales of the Daffodil Line Walks Book. Shuttles depart Newent approximately every half hour on Saturdays and Sundays passengers are encouraged to “hop on, hop off” at village halls, churches and of course the daffodil hotspots including Gwen and Vera’s Field, Betty Daws Wood, Shaw Common, Vell Mill, Dymock Woods and Kempley SSSI Meadow.

There is the opportunity to enjoy guided walks, talks, teas and plant sales or explore under your own steam. But equally the view from the bus offers many opportunities to admire the daffs in their natural ancient woodland and hedgerow habitats - so you might just choose to stay on board and enjoy the ride!”

If you are tempted to take a look at the wild daffs (and to be honest, there are also lots of not so wild daffs adorning the roadside in this part of the Gloucestershire-Herefordshire border, then  take a look at the full information on Shuttle routes and timetables. All events for the 2025 daffodil season can be found at www.daffodilline.co.uk/daffs25. 




Furthermore, you can catch the 232 Daffodil Line bus from Ross or Ledbury. As Clare Stone reminds us “ good public transport is essential for a fairer, greener future, and we’re proud to be a part of that”. And it is a bargain too… the 232 maximum bus fare is still £2 for a single journey so if you have a car give it a break and enjoy the ride through to Newent to connect with the Daffs ‘25 shuttle. Enjoy your day out.  

 

Tuesday, 28 January 2025

Heart of Wales Railway Line Bus Boost X48

 


I never thought I would be saying this but I am pleased that Network Rail is progressing a £1 million pound project to cut back trees alongside the Heart of Wales railway line as the reliability of services on one of the most scenic lines through Mid Wales has been poor for some time and worsening as storm after Atlantic storm hits the Welsh coast. One of the main problems is the number of trees down on the line at during and following each event.

The X48 on layover at Craven Arms

And more to the point I would never have supported the idea of a bus supplementing the train service on the line, but matters are so bad following a cut in the through trains from five to four services a day in December 2024 that I have embraced the development positively.  As I understand it, following numerous representations Transport for Wales asked the Wales government for permission to operate a bus to fill the timetable gaps on the line and funded an initial project to be taken forward with Powys County Council as a delivery partner. The first phase is until August 2025 but the X48 bus is expected to be extended for a longer period beyond that deadline

X48 Bus

Right then, having got that off my chest I’d like to talk about how the service, the X48, can benefit us. The service operates between Craven Arms railway station car park and the Groe at Builth Wells (not Builth Road railway station) calling near to stations to Knighton, Pen-y-bont and Llandrindod. There are connections from Llanwrtyd Wells and one timetabled through service northbound in the afternoon. The timetable for buses is currently separate from the timetable for trains so it is not at all easy for the passenger to bring it all together. Evidently, there are software problems, but sooner or later the railway and bus sectors should be able to merge them. That’s what integration is all about.  A friend of mine let me have a version crafted by someone with the skill to do just that so here it is




Celtic Travel 

The good news is that Powys County Council tender was won by Celtic Travel and they do a great job in providing a reliable service on other routes in Mid Wales and into Shropshire on the X75. However, with regard to the latter many people are unhappy with a proposal to cut the service into sections rather than direct Shrewsbury-Llanidloes/Rhaedr service which exists now. If you feel like commenting spend ten minutes to complete the consultation survey currently posted by Powys Count Council at:

https://www.haveyoursaypowys.wales/powys-local-bus-network-consultation/surveys/online-survey

X48 Core Benefits

Here are some of the core benefits:

Valid train tickets are accepted on the bus and this is especially useful if you catch the 1030 from Shrewsbury to Llandrindod or Llanwrtyd as the best option for returning is likely to be the X48 bus.

Full size buses are being used so it means that group travel will also be possible, for example, for small walking parties.

Timings are not much different to the train as the bus is not able to call at all halts on the line.

The bus allows greater access to Bleddfa and Penybont operating as a hail and ride on those sections allowing easier access to the Radnor Forest.


But equally the train is still the best way to explore the Heart of Wales Line Trail!

Give it a try

I’ll be trying it out again soon as the 1401 and 1801 departures from Llandrindod (Interchange) are handy for a return journey to Shropshire.

Thanks go to the Heart of Wales Line Trail Co-ordinator who has made several useful suggestions to the bus planners to ensure that connections are made at Craven Arms and that everyone knows that while the X48 bus does not currently operate on Sundays the train still does.

Early days but let’s give it a try. Any feedback is welcome.

Sunday, 5 January 2025

New Year and more stories


After a long break, too long a break to be truthful, the Slow Travel in the Marches blog is back. 

Must admit that I simply got tired of the endless 'greenwashing' on the web. In my book, slow travel is not about travelling thousands of miles by plane, hopping into a car hire and having a week's luxury stopover to admire someone else's market place. I know, I am being unkind, but thought it best to express my feelings right now.  

For me, slow travel is not only about spending time at a destination, the travel bit is also the destination. It is how you feel when walking through woodland, or your inner reflections about the past when standing in haunting ruins; we have enough of them in the Welsh Marches. It's about gazing, gazing through the window when on a train or bus, about a cinematic change of scenery which unfolds a little more each and every time. And so many villages have intriguing stories to tell and when you step off the bus there's no better place to visit than traditional inns like the Sun Inn at Leintwardine. 


The blog will focus on the Welsh Marches, although we'll stray east on occasion towards the Malverns and the Golden Triangle as well as into Mid Wales as the history of these parts tells us that it really has been hard to nail exactly where the border lies. Buses and trains, yes, but also walking and cycling adventures too. 

Back soon with information and tips on how to get the best from travels in the Welsh Marches.

Les Lumsdon

Researcher Writer, January 2025

 

Saturday, 5 May 2018

Bus Walks in Shropshire

Bus Walk this Summer on the 576

Easy Walking; 2 mile along Montgomery Canal, allow an hour 

 
The 576 is the number of the bus from Shrewsbury Bus Station to Oswestry Bus Station passing through some of the loveliest North Shropshire countryside. It is ideal for accessing short walks between villages, pubs and cafes in this scenic part of the county. During the summer, I'll be posting different short walks from the bus which are relatively easy and offer a chance to explore the area and take refreshment in each respective village. This makes for a great day out.
 
First up is a short pub walk between Maesbury Marsh and Queen's Head. If you are on the bus from Shrewsbury ask the driver to stop before the canal bridge at Maesbury. If coming from Oswestry the bus stops opposite a bus shelter in the village and you'll need to walk ahead along the pavement to the canal bridge. You might like to take refreshment before setting off so why not call into the Navigation pub, a very traditional hostelry serving food and Stonehouse beers as well as a traditional cider (not open Monday lunchtimes).
 
Otherwise cross the road with care to walk down steps to the canal towpath. Continue ahead along the path away from the Navigation pub and village. The surface is compacted at first but then becomes a green swathe which can be muddy after wet weather.   
 
 
 
The canal features date from the 1790s and reflect a tine when the waterways were important in transporting goods to and fro from rural areas. In this case, the quarries at Llanymynech were vital to the survival of this particular navigation. You'll pass by a series of locks where there are views across to nature reserves and water reservoirs.
 
 
The final stretch is along a wider track past an old canal house and under the A5 to the hamlet of Queen's Head where lo and behold there's a pub of the same name offering refreshment all day so it does not matter what time you arrive in the afternoon. Beers are usually from Stonehouse brewery plus a guest from elsewhere. Time for a welcome break!
 
 

Information

From Shrewsbury: suggested 576 buses at 0900,1100, 1300 (journey time 59 mins)
From Oswesrty: suggested 576 buses at 1045, 1245, 1425 (journey time 11 mins)
 
Buses back from Queen's Head to Shrewsbury... catch the 70/70A every half hour at 00 and 30 mins past the hour until 1730.
Buses back from Queen's Head to Oswestry...catch the 70/70A every half hour at 10 and 40 mins past the hour until 1840.
Buses operate on both routes Mons-Sats...info at arrivabus.co.uk
For pub opening times and information about pubs look at 'What Pub'
 

 

Wednesday, 13 December 2017

Good news for Hay!



Three good reasons to hop on the Hay Ho! bus from Hereford to Hay during the Christmas break...

  • We've kept fares on the service at the same price for 3 years...return is 50p cheaper than the weekday Stagecoach fare!
  • Beer Revolution is offering a 10% discount off  drinks if you show your valid bus ticket...see ad below
  • Hay Ho! (39A) is running a normal service on Christmas Eve (24th December) and New Year's Eve (31st December)
  • Buses leave Hereford Rly Stn, then Country Bus stn and Broad St at 1015,1315 and 1615
  • Buses return from Hay (Oxford Rd) at 1125,1455 and 1725


Folk Down the Track Christmas 2017



Just posted the info about the Knucklas wassail,  but forgot to mention that there'll be a great night at the Castle Inn, Knucklas on Thursday 21st December...Christmas Folk Down the Track...which is always a great night out.

Usual travel arrangements...1824 train from Shrewsbury with all stops to Knucklas and back from there at 2150 giving you over 2 hours for music, singing, dining and drinks.

Plus if anyone tunes into Radio Shropshire, I'll be a guest on the Saturday show, this Saturday at about ten past nine in the morning. No yawning...talking about latest edition of  Best Shropshire Walks.

Wassail, Wassail...Saturday 13th January 2018





Musical procession leaves Castle Green at 7pm.

Arriving at the Orchard for the Wassail to commence at 7.15pm.


Please bring torch or lantern, something to make a noise with (e.g. saucepan lids & wooden spoons) good singing voices and stout footwear.  The purpose of Wassailing is to awaken the cider apple trees and to scare away evil spirits to ensure a good harvest of fruit for the autumn. For more info phone Siggy on 01547 528223.

 

Train travellers from the Shrewsbury direction - arrive at 7.01pm (return at 9.10pm)

Thursday, 30 November 2017

La Vida verde...Llandrindod Wells




A new shop in Llandrindod Wells caught my attention today.

It is a fruit, veg and flower shop offering herbs and spices and oils and vinegars. The shop is aiming for zero plastic packaging for consumers. This is just the type of shop I'm looking for... lovely fresh produce sourced locally wherever possible and with little or no packaging.

It is located in Park Crescent on the way to Rock Park, 5 minutes walk from Llandrindod Wells Railway station and bus stops. Take a look.

Monday, 11 September 2017

Dear readers...here's the latest on Folk Down the Track...a wonderful outing by train to Knucklas on the Heart of Wales line. Put it in your diary!
 
 
THE CASTLE INN KNUCKLAS

Folk Down the Track

On

Thursday 21st September

7pm start

Come along and sing a song or play a tune

It is always a great night – good food and beer!

Please come on the train if you can.

Arrives at 7.23pm from the Shrewsbury direction & returns at 9.50pm

(Check train times before you set out: 03457 484950)

The new owners  – Ying and Vince – wish to welcome you to the Castle Inn and hope you will have an enjoyable evening.

Inline images 1

Friday, 28 April 2017

More Folk Up the Track!




 
As part of Church Stretton Musicfest, on Saturday 13th May, there is a Folk Stage at Church Stretton & District Club from 4pm until 10pm. It’s only 200yds from Church Stretton railway station, and there are northbound trains after the session at 2203 and 2242; southbound at 2210. That makes it very convenient for supporters of Folk Night Down the Track.

Only £5 entrance (£3 children); this not only gets you into the folk venue, but gives all-day access to the rest of Musicfest which starts at 10am, and is in around 10 venues in the town! Purchase tickets on the day at any of the venues. That is superb value.

Folk acts planned are (subject to amendments): Tradewinds Shindy; Bellamonda; Sue Harris and the Clun Songbirds; Elfin Grot; Dan Nichol and Andy Cook; Moulin; Mollie Ann Grant; BouZaTina; Emma and the Professor. The club (importantly!) also sells Real Ale! 

Only the booked performers will be playing at the event.

More info on the website: churchstrettonmusicfest.org.uk.

PS Folk Night Down the Track is working well with over 20 people down the track last time so as to enjoy the Castle Folk Club at Knucklas. Next folk evening is Thursday May 18th.

Tuesday, 14 February 2017

All Change on Folk Down the Track 2017

 
Folk Night Down the Track
Changing the format in 2017

We are changing the format for Folk Down the Track in 2017 and the first night is this coming Thursday, 16th February 2017

Instead of having bi-monthly gatherings it is best for people to have the choice of joining in the folk night at the Castle on any third Thursday of the month. All you need to do is get together with a friend or two and board the train for Knucklas (1824 (6.24 p.m.) out of Shrewsbury, Church Stretton, Craven Arms and stations to Knucklas. There will almost certainly be others on train too so it will have the main ingredients that make it all fun without having to queue at the bar!
At the Castle Inn, Knucklas the musicians will start playing in the bar at around 7.30 (train arrives a few minutes before) and there will be plenty of time to enjoy a meal or drink in the restaurant area or bar before making your way back to the station for 2150 (9.50pm).
As this is not quite the same formula as Folk Down The Track we are calling it Folk Night Down the Track. There's a great atmosphere and train goers are most welcome.
 
 

Friday, 13 January 2017

Wassail at Knucklas Saturday 21st January 2017



Knucklas is set to hold its annual wassail on Saturday 21st, 2017. The procession of locals and visitors parade through the village to the community orchard where the Wassail King blesses the apple trees and implores each tree to produce a good crop in 2017. Great fun and then everyone piles into the Castle Hotel afterwards to enjoy music, good food and refreshment. Fans of Clun beers should enjoy the visit as the Castle often has one on tap.

Catch the 1758 train from Shrewsbury and stations down the track to Knucklas, join the procession at the end of the station drive and then back home on the 2110 from Knucklas station. A great night out down the track.

More information about the new Folk Club Down the Track format coming up at the end of the month so look our for this.

Trail in the Making...Join in!


A Trail in the Making
 
 

There's a launch on Monday 16th January 2017.
 
Yes, a launch of  a trail that is in the making! The Heart of Wales Line Trail funding appeal, to be precise, is ready for lift off next week. I am part of the team bringing this all together and I'd like to ask you to support this great initiative to create a walking trail from Craven Arms to Llanelli (some 120 miles or so). It will weave its way between many of the stations on the line as well as across  the hills and valleys in between and that is a dream come true for many rail ramblers.  
 
In order to make this happen sooner rather than later, the Heart of Wales Line Development Co (social enterprise company) is asking people to chip in to help buy gates, finger posts and the like...all the necessary stuff to make the trail good for walking in 2017/2018. Local authorities will be partners (the Shropshire Council Countryside team are already on board), but they simply do not have the funds to create new trails at present...that is where we come in.


The Heart of Wales Line Travellers’ Association has already raised a fantastic £1000 in a few weeks so they are setting a good example. This crowd funding appeal launches next week and let's hope it is just a busy. Sponsors’ names will appear on a special Roll of Honour and you'll be invited to attend a launch event...bound to be a walk!

What can you do:

Tune in to BBC Radio Shropshire or BBC Radio Wales on Mon 16 Jan to find out about plans for the Trail in 2017
 
Go to Localgiving.org and click in Heart of Wales line trail...and donate!
 
Keep in touch as we will be recruiting volunteers down the line as the project goes from strength to strength.

Arriva Trains Wales, which comes in for a lot of stick,  has been great in getting this project off the ground with a priming fund. Let's build on this success.
 
 

 

 

Saturday, 10 December 2016

Christmas 2016 Folk Down the Track

 



Coming up this Thursday 15th December, 2016

Join us for a festive night out on Folk Down the Track. We'll be on the 1825 train out of Shrewsbury (1817 Ludlow) bound for Knucklas.

The superb Bandamania will be playing while we eat and drink at the Castle Inn, Knucklas then back on the train at 2150 for home.  No entry fee...just a whip round for the band's chosen charity. Singing on the train back.

All welcome and not an evening to be missed!

Wednesday, 23 November 2016

Three Castles Rider



                           White Castle, Llanvetherine...a mile of lane walking from the bus

In the opening pages of Slow Travel in the Marches you soon find out that I am somewhat enchanted by the rural borderland bus. Why? Simply because it brings together all manner of folk on their way to market, a steady flow between village and town with a smattering of walkers making their way into the countryside.There's another good reason. Travelling on the bus allows you to sit back and enjoy the scenery and the views; this new cross border route from St Weonwards in Herefordshire to Abergavenny on market day will not disappoint on that count.

Equally important on this run is that the bus passes directly by two of three notable Norman castles (as linked by the Three Castles walk) namely Skenfrith and Grosmont. It also offers access to nearby White Castle at Llanvetherine, a steady climb of about a mile from the bus stop, well turning to be precise, for formal bus stops are few and far between on this service. Just stick your hand out anywhere reasonable and it stops!

The route taken by the new market day service, the 438, which I have decided to call the Three Castles Rider, is an intriguing one. It starts at St Weonards (allowing a connection from the 36 Hereford to Monmouth bus) then calls in at Broad Oak and Garway Common before dipping down a back lane to Skenfrith, by the Bell Inn and through the village. It then climbs above the River Monnow to the one time medieval garrison township of Grosmont. Then the bus follows back lanes through to Cross Ash and Llanvetherine before before descending into Abergavenny beneath the haunting backbone of Skirrid Fawr; this impressive mass engages the eye throughout the latter part of the journey.

The owner driver, Ian Phillips, reckons that there hasn't been a bus on the route for 20 years and the last bus from Grosmont was about 8-10 years ago. So, it will be an uphill struggle to encourage local people back on board after all of these years, but Ian is a determined man and wants to give something back to the local communities he knows well. That's where we come in... visitors on board will be more than welcome and can help to sustain this truly rural market day bus.


Walkers alight at Llanvetherine for Offa's Dyke Path
 
 
The 438 or dare I say Three Castles Rider operates on Tuesdays only; it is one borderland bus worth sorting out so here's how you can get the best out of your day.
  • Catch the 0840 out of Hereford Railway Station (Country Bus Station, Broad Street) for St Weonards (stop by the church/village store)
  • Board the 438 bus to Abergavenny at 0930. You'll arrive in Abergavenny Bus Station at 1030 in time for coffee and a wander between the street stalls 
  • Then you can catch the Stagecoach X3 back to Hereford from Abergavenny Bus Station at 1130,1330, 1500 or 1600
  • English and Welsh bus passes are accepted on cross boundary trips although a fare is required on the 0840 36 bus as it is before 0930
  • Car users can, of course, do a return trip to St Weonards arriving back at about 1415 
  • Timetable enquiries available of Herefordshire Council Bus Travel website or the operator phone I&S Coaches on 01432 264968