Gilwern to Llangattock and Crickhowell
How to Get to Gilwern from Abergavenny Bus Station
Catch the 76 Merthyr Tydfil bus operated by Stagecoach, 40 minutes past every hour for Gilwern (ask for the stop near the canal), journey time is 25 minutes. Ask the driver to drop you at the Towpath Inn. There's also a less frequent bus A3 Brynmawr bus operated by Newport Bus. Both run on Mondays to Saturdays only. Here's a glimpse of your destination at Llangattock to whet your appetite.
The Walk
This easy 6 mile leisurely exploration of the Monmouthshire and Brecon canal makes for a good introduction to this part of the Usk Valley. There's some concern at present as it is threatened by a potential lack of water to allow navigation by the many narrow boats which ply this truncated part of the UK canal network.
It might well seem a bit foolhardy to us that local entrepreneurs decided to build a canal through such a thinly populated area to a terminus in Brecon and to transfer goods to a horse drawn tramway through to Hay-on-Wye, Eardisley and eventually to Kington and Burlingjobb. But 230 some years ago, the need to build transport networks which could handle bulky goods such as coal, lime, iron and agricultural produce was very pressing as most roads were still in an appalling state.
So, in 1793 the Brecknock and Abergavenny canal was given the go ahead by Parliament and by 1797 work was well under way and later it would be linked with the Monmouthshire canal south of Pontypool. So, it is appropriate that you are treading the towpath from Gilwern as this is where the first tramroad to the canal was built followed by the waterway.
Cross the road by the Towpath Inn to access the towpath and now walk ahead. There are no stiles and the only thing you need to look out for are a small number of cyclists who whiz along at an unfriendly pace. However, be assured most cyclists we met were responsible.
Pass over the Clydach Gorge on an aqueduct, an engineering feat masterminded by Thomas Dadford Junior, although his father and brothers were also involved in the project. Continue through Coed-Perth-y-Piod wood and by a marina at Pen-pedair-heol where the first sod was cut way back in the 1790s.
Llangattock
As you approach Llangattock village there's another feature of note, a Giant Redwood with a very wide fluted girth which has stood the test of time much to the amazement of walkers. The other place of note is the Tramway Coffee shop across the canal-the notice will advise as to how you can pop around to take refreshment if the coffee ferry boat is not on duty.Continue along the towpath to pass by the lime kilns built in the second decade of the 19th century (as featured in the first pic) and onwards to leave the canal at Bridge 105.
Drop down the lane, steeply at first to pass by the 16th century Old Rectory Hotel and by Sant Catwyg church where you keep ahead on a footpath by the house and over a footbridge to the Horseshoe Inn, an engaging hostelry serving great food and a good pint.
Retrace your steps back to St Catwyg church; the tower is 12th century although the original church was much earlier. Follow the path through the churchyard over a footbridge and left at the junction down to Crickhowell Bridge.
Return from Crickhowell
Once over turn immediately right to walk up to the town centre. As the photo below shows, Crickhowell is an interesting place, spoilt only by the intrusion of motor traffic. Catch the bus , Stagecoach X43 and 43 back to Abergavenny (Daily) from the stop near to the Information Centre. Crickhowell will be featured in another article in due course as it is an excellent town for those seeking out walks in the Parc Bannau Brycheiniog.
Thanks to Mike, Mick and Leso for use of photographs.